2nd Panzer Division
CONTACT:
hawkml@bentonrea.com
marcin@oregontrail.net


 
2nd Panzer Division
2nd Panzer Division

2nd Panzer Division

STARTING OUT

The most asked question among new reenactors is "What is the minimum I need to participate, and how much does it cost?" The question of cost is difficult to answer, because of many factors including: where you buy, new or used, reproduction or original, etc. It is possible, with a lot of luck, to start out with a few hundred dollars, and equally possible to spend several thousand dollars. It is probably best to break down the "starter's uniform" into two broad categories: Uniform, and field gear.

PERSONAL APPEARANCE:

Before we discuss the uniform and equipment, we must first discuss your personal appearance. You are expected to achieve and maintain a personal appearance that is consistent with the way a World War II German soldier would look. First: GET A HAIRCUT!! Look at some photographs of German soldiers in WWII. The hair was worn extremely short on the sides and at the back, and long on top. It was normally worn combed straight back with the use of some grease, oil, or pomade. If it was parted, the part was usually ver high on the head. This is the goal. We will accept more modern haircuts as long as they are short on the sides and the back. The hair must not touch your ears or collar. No unusual hair styles or unnatural colors are allowd. No exceptions, no excuses. Second: Get rid of the piercings! Absolutely no piercings allowed. No exceptions, no excuses. Period. Third: If you wear glasses, you must get some period style, non-tinted eyeglasses, or contact lenses. No exceptions, no excuses. Further information will be provided to you about period style food, dogtags, behavior, etc. that are required. Now is also the time to try to get in shape and lose that beer gut. We do not require that you meet height/weight standards, but again, do your research. Not too many German combat soldiers carried the extra pounds that most modern Americans do. We are portraying an infantry unit in active combat. This is not for "couch potatos!"

UNIFORM:

All new members start as privates. You will wear the uniform of a private, and be treated and addressed as a private. You will not wear any awards or decorations until you earn them (see regulations concerning awards, decorations, and badges.) You may be authorized certain awards based on prior reenacting experience or military service, but you must not wear any awards, badges etc. until this determination has been made. The basic uniform consists of:
  1. Cap - M-43 (Einheitsfeldmütze) with two buttons, or M-38 (Feldmütze) with white soutache.
  2. Wool Tunic - Standard, field-grey, four-pocket wool tunic. M-40, M-42, M-43, or M-36 style, M-40 is preferred. Tunic should bear the following insignia: Private's shoulder boards in field-grey with white (infantry) or light green (panzergrenadier) piping. Collar tabs (Litzen) Field-grey with white highlights (worn with infantry piped shoulder boards only) or Einheitslitzen with only dark green highlights which may be worn with any mpression. The collar tabs should be sewn directly to the collar without any backing, except on the M-36 tunic, which requires dark-green backing to match the collar. The national insignia (Hoheitsabzeichen) is the eagle and swastika emblem worn over the right breast pocket. It should be white or light grey on a dark green background, and should be of the woven "Bevo" type. The "subdued" type is worn on later models (M-43 or M-44) tunic only. Embroidered versions of the national insignia are normally reserved for NCOs and officers only.
  3. Wool trousers - Standard field-grey, wool trousers. M-36, M-42 (Keilhose), or M-44 (Rundbundhose). M-42 (Keilhosen) are preferred.
  4. Footwear: Lace-up ankle boots with gaiters (Gemaschen), or jack boots.
  5. Belt and buckle - Standard black leather belt, with plain steel or silver painted Wehrmacht buckle.
FIELD GEAR:

The following field gear is the minimum necessary to participate:
  1. Steel helmet (Stahlhelm): The standard German steel helmet in M-35, M-40, or M-42 patterns. No Spanish helmets allowed.
  2. Belt supporting straps (Koppeltraggestell) - Also called Y-straps - are the shoulder harness worn to support the weight of the belt and equipment. You will need the infantry style that have the extra set of straps used to carry the A-frame assault harness.
  3. Ammunition pouches (Patronentaschen): Two original black leather, three-section ammunition pouches with a minimum of twelve stripper clips for the KAR-98K rifle.
  4. Bayonet and frog (Seitengewehr mit Seitengewehrträger): Original German K-98K bayonet and scabbard with wood or bakelite grips; and original or approved reproduction frog. The earlier leather frog without strap is preferred, but the later "SS-style" M-42 frog with retaining strap is allowed, as is the webbing "tropical" style frog.
  5. Breadbag (Brotbeutel): Original or approved reproduction M-31 or 44 breadbag in green or greyish-green canvas.
  6. Canteen and cup (Feldflasche und Trinkbecher): Original or approved reproduction or post-war canteen and cup. "Continental" style canteen with wool cover and aluminum cup is preferred, but bakelite cup and/or "tropical" canteen are allowed. The aluminum cup should be painted black, field grey, or German olive green.
  7. Rifle - The standard issue rifle throughout the war was the Mauser Kar-98K, in 7.92mm caliber (also known as 8mm Mauser). Do not get a World War I 1898, Czech, Belgian, Chilean, etc. Mauser. These are unacceptable. The Kar-98K can also be found converted to 7.62mm NATO and other calibers. These are okay for use, but the most common 7.62mm conversion was done by the Iraelis, and the sight hood and stock must be changed. Blank ammunition must also be purchased. The basic load is 60 rounds, and depending upon the scenario, you will probably go through at least 60 rounds in one day. Current cost for 8mm blanks is 28 cents per round, and is available trhough the club. You should also have a sling for your rifle. Original, Israeli, or apporved reproduction slings are acceptable. Other weapons are available, and approved, but the Kar-98K is the cheapest, and easiest to find when starting out.

Other items of uniform and field gear (and there are many) are highly desirable, if not actually required, but the above listed items are the bare minimum needed to get you on the field. If you have any questions, contact your squad leader, unit commander, or authenticity officer before you make any purchase.

Also, check the "Authenticity Standards" page for more information.